Is Gray OK?

Revival Wish List: A designer with some savvy decides to march his models down the runway with a strip of silver/gray roots, giving it the stamp of chic. It would recall the 18th century when it was a symbol of status to have gray hair, since you were lucky to live that long.

Gray wigs were all the rage because the hair was rare and expensive; wearing one was sort of like sporting a Rolex today.

For his spring 2010 ready-to-wear, designer Gareth Pugh tried it, sort of — the whole palette was gray, clothes, skin, in what was described as a sort of postapocalyptic look. Maybe there won't be any hair dye post apocalypse. Note to self: Stock up on hair dye for possible apocalypse. 

Another UK designer, Giles Deacon, had some gray streaks on his models, but we're talkin' real roots here!

A Times of London article heralded the return to gray as the rage du jour, but they described the women as groovy grannies. I'm not anywhere near the granny stage, groovy or otherwise.

They quoted Neil Moodie, a stylist at Bumble and bumble: "Grey has always been seen as distinguished on men…"

True. (grumble)

"...but on women it's seen as ageing, which isn't necessarily true — the model Kristen McMenamy looks incredible [with it]."

Um, she's 43, and a model. I don't know. I used to wear fake glasses when I was in my 20s, thought it make me look studious. Now that I have to wear them, I'm irritated as hell.

Sherry Maysonave says, in her book Casual Power, that gray can cut both ways. It can be empowering or totally disempowering. One important thing to consider is if it suits your coloring.

That's key. Consider it like you would any other hair color. You might not look great as a redhead either. In other words, just because it's natural, doesn't mean it suits you.

Now it sounds like I'm arguing wholly in favor of hair color. I'm not. I'm just concerned about what serves you best.  

Congress is a good example: Almost all the men are gray; almost all the women are…not.

As sociology professor Rose Weitz's excellent book Rapunzel's Daughters: What Women's Hair Tells Us About Women's Lives underscores, this kind of decision goes way beyond a cosmetic concern, "it affects a woman's life on social, economic, and cultural levels, often determining professional success and personal acceptance."

"Prior to the 1970s, women were rarely taken seriously in the workforce," Weitz told me in an email. "Even after that date, and until the present, age discrimination has added to sex discrimination to limit women's options in the workforce." She cites the development of safer hair dyes that became more widely available in the mid 20th century as lengthening women's viability in the workplace (and elsewhere). In short, we were "allowed" visibility a lot longer.

Maysonave goes on to write that "the cut and style of gray hair must reflect an updated look." Otherwise, in the workplace especially, it could send a message that your skills and ideas are over the hill. "On the other hand, stylish gray hair (in good condition) can convey that you have years of experience and possibly, wisdom, which can contribute to an authoritative air."

I think it also needs to reflect how you feel on the inside, your energy level, attitude and goals. I'm sure there's a time in life when it's appropriate to go gray. Elizabeth Taylor isn't there yet. Maybe she should be. Or maybe that would be weird.

Check with your stylist. Try on a gray wig. See if you're ready to go gray all the way.

Me, I'm just waiting for roots to appear on the runway.

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Addendum: More gray on Chanel, but still no roots yet.