The Light Touch

Ever since the advent of luminous makeup, celebrities have been wearing more and more of it. But, like plastic surgery, there's a point when enough's enough.

In recent years, the parade down the red carpet has looked so polished it's practically unreal, with skin appearing to have an almost robotic sheen.

This can be particularly peculiar on older skin. Instead of having the desired youthful effect, it can go the other way, quickly. I discussed this "obsession with luminosity," as she calls it with Jacqui Phillips, a veteran makeup artist who toured with Judy Collins, to find some tips on how to avoid the too-shiny trap.

Stick to the upper cheekbone, she says, and sometimes down the top of the nose. This can give a rounded face more angles and be slimming. Faces already more angular can handle a drop or two at temples too.

A few drops blended on the ridges with your fingertips, of shimmers like Benefit's That Gal (which gives a youthful pinkish glow), or Giorgio Armani Fluid Sheer, in golden sand or shimmering beige. But remember to apply with a light touch.

Applying all over the face is what can make you look scary, and sweaty, Phillips cautions. If the shimmer seeps into fine lines and wrinkles, it will just accentuate them. But spreading lightly holds true for skin that has had work done too, she says. With Botox or Restylane treatmetns, or laser procedures that have made skin tight, luminizers can call more attention to that fact. Go easy.

Be sparing on shoulders and collarbone too — apply just enough to give you a glow, not so much that you resemble R2D2.

Phillips also shares some tips from her time on the road with Judy:

For switching from stage to screen to in-person interviews all in one day, foundation was key, she remembers. "Visiora from the Christian Dior Pro line is a really good cream foundation; it's thin, easy, blends nicely, doesn't settle into lines or look cakey," she says.

Because Collins is a singer, Phillips emphasized her mouth with highlighter. "You can do a more subtle version with one of the many primers that are available now, such as Laura Geller or Smashbox," she explains. Doing this before you put on lipliner and lipstick actually helps mask fine lines.

Another secret: cream blush. People always think powder is best on older skin to make pores look smaller but cream blush "keeps skin looking soft and dewy," Phillips insists. "For mothers of the bride, a trick I do [to make the look last a long time] is add a little powder too, but you can carry a little cream blush pot with you; it's easy to reapply." 

A little shine goes a long way; let the rest come from within.