Diana Lewis Jewell, the author of Going Gray, Looking Great!, is known as the guru of gray hair, for good reason! Both her book and her website stand as one of the few resources for getting the lowdown on how to go gray and keep it that way.
Jewell herself was resistant to going gray when writing the book. "You don't have to commit murder to write a murder mystery," she said, laughing. Yet, slowly she was seduced by the ease, even though everyone from best friend to hairdresser advised against it. "You have to be strong," she muses.
But noting the ever-growing gray trend, from Lady Gaga to Kate Moss, and watching a palette of gorgeous grays parade by as other women embrace their true color — trading in the skunk stripe for a full head of lustrous silver — just confirms her own epiphany.
Now she offers up some sage advice:
- Name Your Shade. Brunettes come in chestnut, cinnamon, tortoise shell, espresso … and let's not forget strawberry blonds, etc. By naming your gray, you give it its own unique vibrancy, and personalize it to you. There's a whole color wheel of gray to choose from: steel, pewter, silver, platinum, sterling — find what you like (one woman we know opted for diamond glint gray).
- Protect It! Like blond hair, the sun sucks out the blue molecules, making gray hair dull and even more fragile. Always protect gray hair from the sun with a hat and sunscreens/sealants (it needs protection from smoke and pollution too).
- Go True Blue. Yes, you need to use a use a blue shampoo. It keeps that icky yellow from creeping in and dulling the gray gleam. Popular blues to use: Aveda Blue Malva; Clairol Shimmer Lights is a long-time favorite; L'Oreal Colorist Collection in White Violet.
- Beware Blue Hair. No, you don't want to be called a "blue hair." The way to avoid that: don't over-use the blue. Once every two weeks or so, no more. Otherwise your hair ends up with that Avatar hue.
- Nurture & Nourish: Nothing looks more 'grandma' than gray frizzy hair. To counteract that, you must give your tresses a deep-conditioning treatment once a week to retain smoothness. Good treatments come at every price point, from Pantene and Neutrogena to Kérastase and Fekkai.
- Get a Sharper Image: It's all in the cut. A sharp, well-defined style makes gray hair look fresh, modern and chic. Chin-length blunt cut, well-defined bob, pixie cut, or layers — your options are endless. Think Meryl Streep when she walked off the elevator in Devil Wears Prada. It commands attention and demands respect.
- Shine It Up: This is where gray hair really has an edge. Healthy gray hair can gleam like sheet metal. A lot of women are averse to silicone but it's great to seal the hair shaft which is what gives you the high shine. In fact, it's in a lot of shampoos too.
- Go Au Natural: Many women go gray because they're tired of using all those processed chemicals on their hair. For shine and care the natural way, try white vinegar. Follow up with conditioner (mostly to counteract the smell), or try coconut oil, avocado oil or wheat germ oil.
- Brighten Up. If you're having a dull hair day, give it a quick rinse. Roux Fanci-Full (the rinse not the mousse), is a reliable standby. Or pop in a salon for a glaze which will last up to 5 weeks.
- Try Special Effects: If you don't like the gray god gave you, you can tinker with shades of gray. Highlights (of white) and lowlights (of deeper tones) give the gray dimension, much the same way it works with blonds. Or try different glaze hues to see what suits your coloring the best (just remember to give each one the time to wear off before trying the next ).
For some reason, song lyrics spring to mind — Seals & Crofts: "Diamond Girl, you sure do shine."
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