Chanel is arguably the matriarch of the female fashion designer today. Of course, dressmakers came before her, then Charles Worth for couture and Madame Grès, even Lady Duff-Gordon (who gets a mention in Titanic for her lingerie designs) – just to give a tiny thumbnail sketch of the timeline here. But "Chanel ushered in the idea of clothing for the modern woman," says Fashion Institute of Technology professor and longtime fashion editor Allison Kyle Leopold, with classic, timeless pieces that still exist today (although the house is now designed by Karl Lagerfeld): the tweed jacket, quilted purse, sailor sweater, braid trim – these all now have the stamp of Chanel.